Visit Bluff Country

A guide to Historic Bluff Country

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The year to hike Scenic Bluff Country

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By Charlene Corson Selbee

Effigy Mounds.
Photo by Prairie du Chien Chamber of Commerce
It is not difficult to find a hiking trail in picturesque Bluff Country, as many communities proudly claim at least one hiking trail.

Bluff Country terrain offers trails for all ages and skill levels. The landscape includes miles of rolling hills, scenic overlooks, woods, rivers, rocky bluffs, farms, charming towns, wildlife, and birds.

In Preston, Minn., check out Isinours Junction, which connects with the 18-mile-long Harmony-Preston Valley Trail. There are two interpretive signs on the trail. The first one features the “lost depot,” The other sign highlights the historic “turntable.”

Vetch Park Blufftop.
Photo courtesy of La Crescent Chamber of Commerce
Just 20 minutes south of Rochester, Minn., is Chatfield. Chatfield is located on the Root River Trail and proudly boasts the Lost Creek Hiking Trail. The 6.5-mile trail runs in one direction alongside private land, with parking at Groen Park in Chatfield. The trail is maintained by the Bluff Country Hiking Club, which describes the trail as a natural surface trail. This technical trail features steep climbs and blufftop vistas, several creek crossings, and challenging terrain. The trail is open to the public year-round except during firearms season in November. Brochures are available at either trailhead or in the city park at the visitor’s information center. In February, the hiking club hosts a Candlelight Snowshoe Hike. Snowshoes are available from the club.

Hiking at Eagle Bluff.
Photo courtesy of Eagle Bluff
Eagle Bluff Environmental Learning Center outside of Lanesboro, Minn., has over nine miles of trails open to the public seven days a week, dawn till dust! Eagle Bluff Advancement Director Joe Goetzke shares, “There are many species of birds for viewing on our campus, including bald eagle, indigo bunting, tufted titmouse, pileated woodpecker, scarlet tanager, American redstart, and more! Winter fun on the trails includes snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Goetzke summarizes, “Enjoy incredible views and breathtaking beauty from our scenic overlooks.”

Alltrails.com shares that Maglessen Bluff Park is a 1.5-mile lightly trafficked loop trail in Rushford, Minn., features a great forest setting and is suitable for all skill levels. The trail is primarily used for hiking, walking, running, and nature trails. Dogs are allowed to use this trail but must be kept on a leash.

The Norwegian Ridge Birding & Nature Trails, located on the east side of Spring Grove, Minn., is a combination of three mowed trails (1-, 2-, or 3.5-mile option) that winds over bridges and through meadows, deciduous forests, agricultural lands and around ponds. The trail is open yearlong for hiking nine months of the year and snowshoeing the rest of the year. Parking is available at the grocery store near the trailhead.

Photo courtesy of La Crescent Chamber of Commerce
Apple Blossom Overlook Park is in Dakota, Minn. According to the La Crescent Chamber of Commerce, it is an easy 7-minute drive up to the top of the Scenic Apple Blossom Drive (Elm St.). The Chamber of Commerce director shared that those visitors will be treated to sweeping views of the main channel of the Mississippi River and the Driftless region. A 1.5-mile looping trail with oak-hickory-birch woods and goat prairies provides a variety of scenery for hiking and snowshoeing. The wide trails are suitable for all abilities.

Executive Director Julie Hatlem, La Crescent Area Chamber of Commerce & Tourism, recommends visitors check out Vetsch Park, “A gem of a park.” The park is in La Crescent city limits and offers a variety of looping trails and terrain with access to the top of the bluff.

Twin Springs.
Photo by Nick Chill
Hatlem suggested Eagles Bluff Park. The La Crescent park offers a variety of wooded hiking trails that take you up to the top of the bluff.

“Great River Bluff State Park located in Winona, Minn., sits high on the bluffs overlooking the Mississippi River; scenic overlooks are easily reached by walking trails and offer a chance to get away in the quiet bluff country. Oak-hickory woods, pine plantations, and goat prairies provide excellent birding, scenery, hiking on over six miles of trails and nine miles of mostly intermediate level cross-country ski trails,” shared Hatlem.

Are you looking for a leisurely stroll? Como Falls is located behind the fire station in Hokah, Minn.

Photo courtesy of Prairie du Chien Chamber of Commerce
Recommended Wisconsin hiking trails in the Prairie du Chien, Wis., area include Lawler Park and Nelson Dewey State Park. In addition to offering a variety of terrain, scenic overlooks, birds, and wildlife, both parks share historical stories of the area. Lawler Park offers a river walk with interpretive markers detailing the many layers of Prairie du Chien history. The Nelson Dewey State Park is part of the original estate of Wisconsin’s first governor, Nelson Dewey.

La Riviere Park, a 300-acre nature park located in SE Prairie du Chien, is managed for its natural beauty, wild plants, and wildlife. There are six miles of nature and hiking trails. Winter activity includes snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and sledding. Wildlife abounds in this nature park and is a bird watchers’ haven. Prairie du Chien has been a Wisconsin Bird City since 2013.

The Prairie du Chien area highlights include the one-mile Sturgeon Slough Hiking Trail. The trail is accessed from the rest stop on Hwy. 18 between Prairie du Chien and Marquette, Iowa.

Yellow River State Forest, near Harpers Ferry, Iowa, and Effigy Mounds National Monument, offers more than 50 miles of multi-purpose trails for all skill levels. Hikers traverse through mature forests.

Blue Dragonfly at Cardinal Marsh near Cresco, Iowa.
Photo by Charlene Corson Selbee
Visitors and residents flock to Pikes Peak State Park, McGregor, Iowa, Mt. Hosmer Lookout and Park, Lansing, Iowa, and Effigy Mounds National Monument, Harpers Ferry, Iowa, to take in the picturesque vistas of the mighty Mississippi River. Have your camera ready to snap pictures of the eagles soaring in the sky above the bluffs. Hiking trails are available at all three locations.

When in Northeast Iowa, visit Decorah, a haven for walkers. Check out the 11-mile Trout Run Trail, Prairie and Butterfly Garden, Dunning Springs, Phelps Park, Palisades Park, Twin Springs, and the Decorah Fish Hatchery. Dogs on leash are welcome.

Spend a quiet day at Cardinal Marsh, Wildlife Management Area, minutes from Ridgeway, Iowa, taking photos of butterflies, dragonflies, birds, and wildlife.

Now, head outside and enjoy Bluff Country!

Caves, underground streams, waterfalls, and sinkholes

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By Charlene Corson Selbee

Effigy Mounds.
Photo by Brooklyn Holmstrom
This is the year to explore the karst topography both above and below ground in the driftless region. Years 2021 and 2022 are celebrated as the International Year of Caves and Karst.

“The 24,000 square miles of the driftless area is almost the size of Iowa and Wisconsin and encompasses four states and 46 counties,” explained George Howe with Sustainable Driftless, Inc. and film producer of Mysteries of the Driftless and Decoding the Driftless. The driftless region includes southwestern Wisconsin, southeastern Minnesota, northeastern Iowa, and the far northwestern corner of Illinois.

Why the name “driftless”? According to Wikipedia, the Driftless Area is an area “never covered by ice during the last ice age, and therefore lacks glacial deposits, also termed drift. The landscape in the driftless region is characterized by steep hills, forested ridges, deeply carved river valleys, and karst geology with spring-fed waterfalls and cold-water trout streams.”

Effigy Mounds.
Photo by Brooklyn Holmstrom
The Oxford Languages online dictionary defines karst as, “Landscape underlain by limestone which has been eroded by dissolution, producing ridges, towers, fissures, sinkholes, and other characteristic landforms.”

Visitors come to the driftless region for world-class fly fishing, mountain biking on inclines steeper than can be found in mountains, to paddle the numerous rivers, rock climbing, hiking, birding, hunting, camping, exploring caves, taking pictures, admiring waterfalls both underground and above ground, and sightseeing.

Howe explained, “The driftless is world-famous for trout fishing and known throughout the world for birding as there are many species of birds.” The Mississippi Flyway is a bird migration route that follows the Mississippi River. Over 40% of North America’s migrating birds follow this route.

“The top three destinations in the United States are New York, Hollywood, and the Mississippi River,” shared Howe.

Visitors explore the Mississippi River in paddle boats, speed boats, canoes, and cruise ships.

Native Americans found the richness of the area beneficial, and their footprints are still evident in the area. A must stop is Effigy Mounds National Monument, Harper Ferry, Iowa. Howe explained, “There are more Native American mounds in this area than anywhere else in the world.”

Fishing at Upper Twin Springs.
Photo by Wanda Askleson
Howe’s top picks

  1. Start in Wabasha, Minn., and follow the scenic Great River Road, which follows the majestic Mississippi River to Lansing, Iowa, or venture further south to Dubuque, Iowa.
  2. Wisconsin Dells, Wis., and Devil’s Lake State Park, Baraboo, Wis.
  3. SE MN sinkholes and caves – Niagara Cave, Harmony, Minn.; Forestville/Mystery Cave State Park; and Fountain, Minn., Sink Hole Capital of the U.S.
  4. Bike or travel the Root River Trail in SE MN by foot or head to the Elroy-Sparta State Trail, Wis.; the oldest rail to trail initiative goes through three tunnels.
  5. Lake Pepin, a natural lake and the widest part of the Mississippi River, is not only rare, but beautiful. Lake Pepin is known as the birthplace of water skiing.

Dawn Ryan, founder, and Sabrina M. Fluegel, Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion Marketing consultant for DARK (Driftless Area Karst Trail) note that there are 69 stops on the trail known as discovery areas. Check out the Driftless.caves.org website for more information and download the interactive self-guided driving tour app, Flyover Country, to create a personalized itinerary.

Ryan and Fluegel’s top picks

  1. Mystery Cave, Niagara Cave, and Cave of the Mounds are excellent examples of caves.
  2. Dresbach Welcome Center in Dakota, Minn., boasts a karst exhibit.
  3. Checkout the Chimney Rock Footbridge, a single-span, rustic-style stone, and timber pedestrian bridge designed by N. Averill and built in 1935 by the Civilian Conservation Corps at the Whitewater State Park in Altura, Minn.
  4. John Latsch State Park, Minnesota City, Minn., a 1,654-acre state park borders the Mississippi River. Hiking trails lead to the top of the three bluffs, – Mount Faith, Mount Hope, and Mount Charity that provide spectacular views of the river.
  5. Coldwater Cave State Preserve, Bluffton, Iowa. A spectacular cave is located under the rich black dirt of pristine Iowa farmland in NE Iowa. A trail is available for visitors as the entrance to the cave is gated closed.
  6. Wyalusing State Park, Bagley, Wis., is one of Wisconsin’s oldest state parks, offering campsites, hiking trails, a canoe trail, Native American burial mounds, bird watching, fishing, boating, bicycling, and picnicking at the top of overlooks.

DARK can be found on Facebook and Instagram @driftlessareakarsttrail. Use #driftlesslive when posting so everyone can enjoy your journey and photographs.

View Bluff Country from the back of a horse

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By Charlene Corson Selbee

Splash and dash in the Yellow River State Forest.
Photo by Lana Dahlstrom
The bluff country of NE Iowa, SE Minnesota, and SW Wisconsin offers miles of unspoiled scenic beauty to make your horseback riding trip memorable, fun, and challenging.
Riders will find trails that offer water obstacles, woods, flatlands, hills, bluffs, rocks/gravel, scenic overlooks, challenges, and unknowns. Some trails are suitable for beginners to advance riders.

Need some gear? Deb Thompson, the owner of Hoffmann Stables located outside of Preston, Minn., on Highway 52, explained that they do not have any trails or rent horses. But, Thompson stressed, “We carry all the equipment needed for horses and riders.” Hoffmann Stables is the first stop before riders head to the Forestville Mystery Cave State Park.

Forestville Mystery Cave State Park is a short 7.7-mile drive from Preston and is open for horseback riding from May to October. A trail pass is required to use the trails and is available online at the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (DNR) website dnr.state.mn.us or at the park.

Now, this is the way to ride a horse, as seen with Becca Erding at Forestville State Park.
Photo by Edna Jacobson
Forestville has 55 horse campsites, with 23 of the sites having electricity. Riders can make reservations online at the DNR website.

There are 17 miles of horse trails in the park. This park is unique from other parks because riders and their horses can stroll through the main street in Historic Forestville, a living history museum. Matt Eidem, Historic Forestville site manager, shared, “The horses really add to the atmosphere at Historic Forestville and really looks like a lot of fun for the folks who are coming through.”

Outback Ranch is located southwest of Houston, Minn., in the Yucatan Valley at the base of the wooded hills. Owner Holly Wieser mentioned that they do not rent horses. She explained that the ranch owns 260 acres with 40 miles of private trails. Wieser shared, “Our visitors like riding here because there is a variety of trails – woods, overlook, grass, rocky, and sandy. Riders like that we have individual pastures.”

This is Bluff Country, Outback Ranch, Houston, Minn.
Photo submitted

There are camping spots with electrical, cabins, bunkhouses, and primitive camping, as well as tent camping at the ranch.

Deneen Nagel and others enjoy a little horse play in Forestville.
Photo by Edna Jacobson
One of many online testimonies. “I belong to a group of about 120 trail riders form SE Minnesota. We get together every Wednesday for a day ride somewhere in the area from Red Wing to the Iowa border. They look forward to the ride here on the Outback trails and the Wet State Forest. The trail system has whatever challenge you want, from easy flat riding to challenging terrain. The views are spectacular!” – Dennis Eich.

Outback Ranch connects to the Wet Bark Recreation Area. There are 11 miles of horseback riding trails. The trails go through the woods, have scenic overlooks, rolling to steep trails, and grassy to rocky trails. Riders should note that there are no water crossings, so there is no place to water the horses while on the trail. There are five primitive campsites in the campgrounds. It is recommended that horses be in good condition!

The horse trailer parking area at Wet Bark Recreation Area has picket lines and a small corral. Portable corrals are allowed in the parking area. A trail pass is required.

Riding the 10-mile Sawmill Trail on the lush outskirts of Spring Grove.
Photo by Lori Stoen
A well-kept secret is the Sawmill Trail, located on the east side of Spring Grove. The trailhead is located behind the Farmer’s Coop Elevator on the south side of Highway 44. There is no campground, but overnight camping and parking are allowed on the grassy knoll. There are no porta potties or water, just a fire ring, and new highlines.

The 10-mile Sawmill Trail is an easy trail that crosses all private land. The trailhead overlooks the picturesque valley and meanders through wooded areas crossing Highway 27 and 16 and the sawmill, which the trail is named after. Spring Grove resident and rider Lori Stoen explained, “There is very little rock, so shoes are not necessary unless your horse has sensitive feet.”

La Riviere Park, a 300-acre nature park near Prairie du Chien, Wis., is touted as one of the region’s largest horse camps. The park has a six-acre camp with 80 campsites with water and electrical hookups. The campsites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis. Camping is free. Donations are accepted.

Dr. Bryce Niemeyer, Chosen Valley Veterinary Clinic, gives a talk to riders on trail emergency, at Historic Forestville.
Photo by Heather Hill

There are six miles of horse trails in the park with access to additional trails off the park on private property. Riders experience the many wonders of nature as the trails take them through the woods to open fields and many hills and valleys. Some trails are not marked, and several can be challenging to the inexperienced rider.

The 10-mile Sawmill Trail on the outskirts of Spring Grove is an enjoyable ride.
Photo by Lori Stoen
The 8,500-acre Yellow River Forest near Harpers Ferry, Iowa, offers 38 miles of equestrian trails that weave in and out through oak-hickory woods home to wild turkeys, deer, Cooper’s hawks, and woodchucks. Several scenic overlooks in the Paint Creek Unit are accessible by horseback. In addition, there are two large primitive campsites at Little Paint Creek Unit.

“Happy trails to you, until we meet again.” – Roy Rogers and Dale Evans

Real Bites

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Stellar 181 Taphouse serves up a delicious steak accompanied by seasoned potatoes and an asparagus worthy of a trip to Spring Valley, Minn. Photo by Amanda Sethre

Stellar 181 Taphouse

There’s something pretty special happening in downtown Spring Valley, Minn.

Stellar 181 Taphouse.  But that’s not all.

This has been years in the making.  It started with a hair salon and spa, then a clothing boutique, then a dessert and cake specialty store… and then a restaurant.

Chateau de Chic Salon & Spa, Chic by Chateau, Some Like It Hot, and Stellar 181 Taphouse.  They all have one common thread.

A line-up of businesses have evolved with the entrepreneurial spirit of a family that knows the formula for success.  They know style, presentation, ambiance, quality, and service.

And, our family and business have appreciated working with each of these four businesses.  My wife has had her hair done at the salon.  My wife loves the clothing line at the boutique.  We’ve ordered birthday cakes and a retirement cake for one of our employees at Some Like It Hot.  And we recently dined at Stellar 181 Taphouse, owned and operated by Alex and Jenn Slifka.

They didn’t disappoint.

First, we ordered nachos for the family, and there was a battle for the finale.  Delish.

My wife had the Philly steak and cheese, and I was envious (I’ll be back for that one, too).

And, then my steak arrived.  I always order my steaks medium rare.  Let me just say, “Incredible!”  One of the best steaks I’ve had in a long time, along with a side of potatoes and asparagus.  While the steak was perfect, the way the asparagus was prepared caught our attention.  My wife, son and myself all enjoyed the asparagus.  The head chef happened to come out of the kitchen and we asked him what made his asparagus so tasty.  He told us his secret.  I won’t share it here, but you can ask him when you are dining at Stellar 181 Taphouse.

We also tried their specialty drinks and beers.  Top-notch to go along with their food.

This place falls nothing short of stellar.  Highly recommended.

Real Bites – Four Daughters Vineyard & Winery

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Caramel Macchiato Cake was the dessert of choice at Four Daughters Vineyard and Winery in Spring Valley, Minn. A wise person once said, “Always save room for dessert.”
Photo by Jason Sethre

This past weekend, a collection of relatives gathered at Four Daughters Vineyard and Winery, just outside of Spring Valley, Minn.
We celebrated Randy Reiter’s 50th birthday, a little earlier than usual, because the weather was perfect. This is my wife’s brother.
We selected Four Daughters Vineyard and Winery because we’ve all agreed that they serve one of the best wood-fired pizzas this side of the Mississippi River.
Our families enjoyed two pizzas on this beautiful Saturday: pepperoni and corn on the cob, and prosciutto and asparagus. It was a tough call on which one was the best. With either choice, we didn’t have much left over for the ride home.
Of course, Four Daughters is known for their award-winning wines, which is what gets us in the door. But, their desserts truly take the cake.
It’s best to always save room for dessert, right?!
Caramel Macchiato Cake. The menu describes it as follows, “Layers of caramel ice cream, Four Daughters Pinot Noir chocolate cake, espresso gelato, and our kitchen’s special toffee. All topped with house-made salted caramel, fudge, and whipped cream.”
It was a team effort. Collectively, it can take five or six people to eat this one gigantic mountain of deliciousness.
Highly recommended.
It was a perfect day to sit outside and watch the wedding-goers prepare for the main event between the vines.
Four Daughters hosts quite a number of weddings year-round. They have an incredible facility with the backdrop of a picture-perfect six acre vineyard that offers a priceless view.
For fans of the winery, they also offer a subscription-based wine club membership opportunity. With that program, subscribers can either pick up the quarterly wine packages at Four Daughters, or have them delivered to their home.
Blue skies, wine, pizza, dessert, and conversation with family made for a wonderful day full of memorie.
Owners Gary and Vicky Vogt, along with their four daughters, provide the right combination of food, service, and ambiance.
It’s all about creating memorable experiences.

Noticing More

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By Wanda Hanson

Kristi Danielson-Vreeman notices more and sees more than she used to — not because of glasses or surgery — but because she’s a photographer! Small details that might have previously gone unnoticed now become subjects of her photographs; close-ups of spiderwebs become crystal creations.

Kristi’s dad bought her a 110 flash camera when she was 12 years old, thus nurturing a lifelong interest in photography. In college, Kristi took a class on developing her own film which she enjoyed. Shortly after that she got her first digital camera, no longer needing to develop film then.

When her kids were small, and life was busy, she got out of photography for a while. At that time cell phones had good cameras, so she used her cell a lot for taking pictures of her kids.

Her husband Seth bought her a “pretty fancy” Nikon D500 about three years ago. They would go driving around taking photos. After a year of this, Seth wanted to get in on the fun. He bought himself a Sony Mirrorless camera and began taking his own photos as well.

Kristi shared that Seth enjoys researching places to go and explore with their cameras. Seth enjoys taking wildlife and night sky photos, while Kristi likes landscapes and animals. Kristi also does some family photography on the side as a hobby, using any profits to further her photography.

Kristi’s job is as a domestic violence victim advocate in northern Iowa; photography is a stress reliever for her. She enjoys sharing her work with friends on Facebook. She and Seth were asked to take pictures of the local Canton Santa parade. They often just go and do these acts of kindness, such as at benefits. A photo taken of the Garness Trinity Church outside of Mabel will be printed and given to the church.

Kristi has started to enter some contests; the Garness Trinity Church photograph recently won a cash prize for Kristi. She humbly added she’s actually won quite a few contests on FanArt social platform. She shared that it’s fun to find out she’s won and uses the cash for her photography hobby.

During the pandemic, Kristi has been taking an online photoshop class. The class is teaching her to do composite photos in which she puts one photo into another.

While her children may greet the news of their parents’ weekend plans with eye rolls, Seth and Kristi enjoy taking off for a weekend in their vehicle or on the motorcycle to find new photography subjects and locations. Kristi is looking forward to their planned trip after Christmas. The couple is heading up north to Sax Zim Bog. The Bog, 45 minutes north of Duluth is frequented by birders. Seth and Kristi are hoping to see the Great Grey Owls there.

Eagles and owls are favorites for the couple. Kristi noted that they see eagle nests everywhere now. Both Kristi and Seth take their cameras everywhere, even when heading out to work. They’ve learned that if they leave their cameras behind, they are sure to see something they want to photograph! Kristi confessed she takes her camera kayaking. Yes, it’s housed in a water-proof bag, and she gets some awesome shots of eagles above her. Kristi is interested in trying snowshoeing — of course she plans to take her camera along if she does that!

An extended car loan helped Kristi to purchase her Tamron 150-600 mm lens. This lens can take good close-ups from far away, a useful tool in photographing her favorite owls and eagles. While it’s fun to use, Kristi said a drawback is that it’s heavy and she often forgets her tripod.

Kristi is quick to point out that you don’t need a fancy camera or lenses to get started, however; she confessed she bought her last cellphone in part because of its camera. She takes her cell on photo shoots and uses it for landscapes. “I don’t think it’s the camera; you can get good pictures with anything!”

Her advice to beginning photographers is to use their cellphone and just get out and start doing it! Cell phones can take good pictures; the only drawback is that you can’t get quality enlargements larger than 5×7.

There are lots of photography groups on Facebook you can join for all levels of photography, where you can ask questions, get your photos critiqued, get ideas for composition, or just post your work for feedback from others. YouTube has lots of tutorials as well, an easy and convenient way to learn.

Kristi finds editing fun as well. She uses Lightroom app on her computer for this. Snapseed is another app she recommends for the phone.

If you decide to invest in a DSLR camera, Kristi advises you to read your manual and learn all about the multitude of functions your camera has — or just use it and then learn from your mistakes. With immediate ability to see your photos, it’s easy! A caution from Kristi, be sure to take your camera’s memory card along when leaving for a shoot! Kristi learned that the hard way and now always has spares.

Kristi’s oldest child has gotten interested in photography with her phone. Kristi bought her four-year-old granddaughter a Fisher-Price camera, and she has caught the photography bug. Her favorite, taking selfies! It appears Kristi’s enthusiasm for photography is contagious! Maybe it’s something you’ll want to catch as well!